Showing posts with label California. Show all posts
Showing posts with label California. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Ina Goes West

Barefoot Contessa with Ina Garten

The episode starts with Ina walking through a gorgeous outdoor area, but, wait, it doesn’t look like her house. Oh, it’s not! She and Jeffrey have rented a house in Napa. HE'LL be working on a book (a novel about the lovable husband of a peripatetic foodie in Paris, perhaps?) and SHE'LL be having a food adventure. Why do I think she may include a few swigs of wine or a cocktail or two...or more? It’s “Barefoot Contessa California style.”

Ina and Jeffrey are strolling in the Farmer’s Market in St. Helena. She says she doesn’t normally like to take Jeffrey to markets (she DOESN’T?), but on vacation they like to explore them together. They are so cute walking with their arms around each other.

They admire the many varieties of grapes and tomatoes. There are beautiful peppers too. Ina buys a few containers of cherry tomatoes, basil and lemons. The farmer lady tells her they grow it all themselves and they’re certified organic. It was $13. I think that’s kind of reasonable. Of course, you’d have to factor in the airfare.

Jeffrey wants to know what she’s going to make. Ina says she wanted to see what was at the market and she’ll make him lunch from that. His arm around her gets even tighter in anticipation of a wonderful meal. They’re too sweet.

Back at the house (which is more like a palace), Ina cuts really crusty, delicious looking French bread into diagonal slices. She brushes them with olive oil and puts them in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes. She toasts pine nuts and cuts the luscious cherry tomatoes in half.

Ina says she loves going to markets and seeing what’s fresh. She’s going to make tomato crostini with whipped feta. How interesting that that recipe just came to her while she was strolling around the market. (Let’s not mention that the recipe is in her latest, huge selling cookbook -Barefoot Contessa Foolproof. Never mind that.)

Ina puts 6 oz. of feta and 2 oz. of cream cheese in the food processor and purées it. She says to make sure they’re at room temperature. She adds 1/3 cup of olive oil and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and some salt and pepper. She uses a reamer and a little strainer to get the juice, “There’s no substitute for fresh lemon.”

(I wonder if, when she was looking for houses to rent, one of the requirements was that it had to be “equipped with Barefoot Contessa-like kitchen equipment”. What if they had had all Rachael Ray bright orange, plastic-handled stuff? Would she have had to run out to Sur La Table to bring in the classier stuff?)

Ina takes the pieces of bread out of the oven. They looks wonderfully crisp, which is exactly what I HATE about crostini. They are impossible to eat as they cut into your gums. I would put the bread in a toaster oven on the tray thingie and toast it. The bottom would still be soft and the top would be nicely browned.

For the tomato topping, she mixes together 2 tablespoons of (beautifully) minced shallots, minced garlic (I would remove the center stalk) and 2 tablespoons of GOOD red wine vinegar. She lets that sit for 5 minutes so the shallots can absorb the vinegar. (That is SO important and makes a huge difference. Pickled shallots are so wonderful to garnish soups, stews, chilies, lots of things…I usually use white wine vinegar, but, for this recipe, red wine vinegar would be perfect.).

Next Ina adds a 1/3 cup of GOOD olive oil, salt and pepper to the pickled shallots. She pours that over 2 pounds of halved cherry tomatoes and sets that aside for 10 minutes. She spreads the whipped feta on the toast and tops it with the tomatoes and “a few” pine nuts. Lastly, she tops them with julienned basil leaves.

Ina says she made too many crostini, but likes to have them around for soup and dips. (Isn’t she on vacation?) Ina brings a beautiful plate of crostini to Jeffrey while he’s hard at work on his book. (I still don’t like the crunchiness of the crostini and I would be afraid of all that juicy topping stuff falling on to the computer…)

Ina tells us, “If you happen to live in Napa, there are so many things to be grateful for…not the least of which is Thomas Keller who’s got to be one of the most admired chefs in America.” OMG. She’s not actually cooking with Thomas Keller, is she? 

THAT would be worth the price of admission. (A basic cable bill.) She shows us his French Laundry restaurant and one called Ad Hoc in Yountville Ina tells us that Ad Hoc has a “lunch service” called Addendum three times a week. OH! So no cooking with the master, but Ina is going to pick up take out Buttermilk Fried Chicken from Addendum. AND Chef Dave Cruz is going to show us how to make it in a video. 

Brining it overnight is one of the secrets as to why it's so good. (Brining seems to be the secret to many successful dishes. I feel as if it could solve other problems too. Maybe we could get world peace, or at least gun control, if more folks brined their chicken.)

Chef Cruz brings to a boil A LOT of stuff for the brine:
1 gallon water
1 cup kosher salt
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons honey
12 bay leaves
1 head of garlic, halved
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
About 1/2 ounce (1 large bunch) thyme sprigs
About 2 ounces (1 large bunch) flat leafed parsley sprigs
5 lemons, halved

He cools it and puts in 2 chickens, which have been cut up into 8 pieces each. (That’s a big container of brine. Couldn’t he have done double the chickens?)

Then the chicken gets dipped in flour, salt, pepper, paprika, cayenne, onion and garlic powders. (I hate those last two ingredients, except when frying at high temperature.)  Next, the chicken pieces go in buttermilk and then BACK in the flour. That’s interesting. I have never redipped anything back in the original flour. Most recipes have the chicken dipped in buttermilk (or marinated if you’re not brining it) and then dipped in flour. This is an intriguing way to do it.

The video continues. The chicken pieces are fried at 340°F in a deep pot of peanut oil. (The recipe says 10 cups.) The chef separates the pieces as they fry and, after 6 minutes, he takes them out. Wow, that looks amazing.

Back at the take out window, the chef himself brings out Ina’s chicken. She drives back to the house and brings Jeffrey a tray of Thomas Keller’s fried chicken. He’s delighted. She says, Isn’t this the best fried chicken you’ve ever had?” “Next to the one you make,” her honey replies. “That’s the right answer,” Ina says. How cute are they?

Next Ina is planning a secret cocktail party on the patio, just for the two of them. She’s hired Jon Gasperini, a mixologist, to teach them how to make some fancy cocktails.

Jon brings his own (very attractive) bar. He has a catering company called Rye on the Road, where he brings the cocktail party to you. Guess who says, “How great is that?”

Ina goes into the kitchen to make some snacks for them to have with their drinks. She says to us, you know how when you rent a house you never know how good it’s going to be? Well, she’s thrilled with this one. She loves the garden, which happens to include a fig tree. She takes one off the tree and also finds some fresh thyme. She admires the rest of their herb garden. “It’s clear the owners love to cook. I’m really making myself at home here, aren’t I?”

(What would YOU do if you found out the Barefoot Contessa was renting your house? Wouldn’t you offer her a free night if she would just invite you to dinner…or lunch…or even a quick snack?)

Ina puts 1 lb. Marcona almonds (she loves them) on a sheet pan with 2 teaspoons of oil, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and 2 tablespoons of fresh thyme leaves. She tosses that all together and roasts them at 350°F for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them every 5 minutes. When she takes them out of the oven, she sprinkles over some really coarse fleur de sel.

Ina loves this recipe with thyme, but says you can use rosemary too. She says to store them sealed in a container, if you make them in advance.

While Jon is setting up his amazing bar, Ina goes to find Jeffrey and unchain him from his desk. She says he’s going to be really surprised. She guides him out onto the patio and introduces him to Jon.

They start with a Napa Spritz. Ina makes her own alongside Jon. They start with organic lavender, organic Meyer lemons and a local vermouth AND local gin. (My local gin is called Tanqueray.) They put in lots of crushed ice and shake, shake, shake the drink and then strain it into a glass. Jon puts ice SPEARS in and tops it off with seltzer and fresh lavender. He adds a paper striped straw and hands it to Jeffrey. Jeffrey says it’s dangerous, because it goes down too easily. (I’m glad he didn’t smell the lavender and call it an old lady drink.)

Jeffrey’s up next. He peels 4 to 5 basil leaves and claps them.(?) Jon adds simple syrup, lime juice and they muddle that together to pummel the herbs to release the oils. Then he adds 1½ ounces of gin and ice. “There’s a time limit on cocktails once you add ice,” says Jon. (That makes sense.) They shake their cocktail shakers and strain the gimlets into glasses. They garnish each with a basil leaf that’s been clapped. (There we go again.)

Ina ends with a toast to Jon. Jeffrey adds, “And to California.”  The Contessa coos, “HOW FABULOUS! We love it here.” How could she not? She’s in paradise with potent cocktails and with darling Jeffrey by her side. (Bartender Jon is pretty cute too.)

Friday, April 16, 2010

More Great Eating In California – Vegan Food And Cupcakes


I have to tell you about this place that is sooo California and sooo fantastic. It's called Native Foods Café, which actually sounds a bit politically incorrect, but it's just the opposite.

It's the most imaginative, freshest riot of plant-based (non-dairy) dishes (organic/vegan/vegetarian, they call themselves) that you can conceive of. The one we went to was in Orange County and the food was served under a YURT-shaped structure. (Of course, it was.)

Just look at this beautiful food!


I ordered the vegan equivalent of a BLT, The BLTease.

WHY would anyone order a regular BLT again? The ONLY difference was that the bacon equivalent (PLEASE don't say you don't like tempeh until you've tasted this) didn’t have the same crispness of real bacon. But that was more than made up for with the crunchy vegetables and the extraordinary bread. The Watermelon Fresca "fresh watermelon, a touch of mint, sweetened with agave" was pretty awesome too!

If you are ever ANYWHERE where there is a Native Foods Café, RUN, don’t walk, to it.

Oh, wait one more thing...We had GREAT cupcakes at Yummy Cupcakes. WHO said cupcakes are dead (in favor of Whoopie Pies)? I'm just not buying it.

A cupcake note: You know, I'm not a fan of Red Velvet Cake (or cupcakes). But I think I may just need to adjust my thinking a bit. Instead of thinking of red velvet cake as a basically failed, not-chocolatey enough cake, maybe I should think of it as a white cake, with tons of food coloring and a drop of cocoa. Nah, it still doesn’t work for me. BUT these Red Velvet Cupcakes WERE good and the cream cheese icing (always the best part) was divine. The Peanut Butter Cupcakes and the Chocolate/Chocolate ones were superb too!

More LA Food

A few more notes about eating in Los Angeles.

At the fantastic Campanile, I asked if Chef Mark Peel was in the house. I told the Maître D’ that he was one of my favorites from Top Chef Masters.

Truthfully, I didn’t remember if I had said anything horrible about him, but I didn’t think the Maître D’ would pull up my blog at the front desk and accuse me of treachery.

Funnily enough, Chef Peel was in Palm Springs on that very day at a food festival. We had JUST come FROM Palm Springs and I had actually wanted to wander over to that festival, but I had no other takers.

It didn’t seem to matter that the chef wasn't in the house. The food was amazing.

But it’s not only food I’m interested in whenever I’m in LA. I always have my antenna up for famous people.

I was really spoiled the first time we went to California, maybe 12 years ago. We were staying at some hotel near Universal Studios and as I walked into the hotel just after we arrived, THIS is who I saw!!! Awesome, right? I really hope you’re not saying you have no idea who that is. It’s the father from the Wonder Years, of course. Fantastic, huh?

Anyway, so I’m always on the lookout. So, listen to this! Right next to us at Campanile was a guy, who for the first 45 minutes, I was completely and positively sure was Paul Giamatti. AND I wasn’t the only one at the table that thought that.

THEN he turned and we saw more than his close-cropped beard and sturdy glasses profile and, NO, it wasn’t the Oscar winner. He turned out to be some kind of wine fundi, who, with a cast of rotating characters, spent the evening tasting wines, MANY wines, and making a ruckus and being generally completely full of himself. I’m sure Paul Giamatti would have been much lower key.

I also think that someone doesn’t have that look by accident. He WANTED people to do a double take and think he was a movie star. Incidentally, not all wine experts are painful. I know at least one or two who are completely delightful.

This is exciting. I didn’t realize until I looked back at any potential scurrilous remarks I had made about Chef Peel (there were none) that one of the things we ordered was what he cooked for Neil Patrick Harris at the Magic Castle on Top Chef Masters! It was the Tai Snapper With Scallion Oil. I didn’t actually taste it, but it got raves from the person who did.

The fish on Top Chef Masters was in parchment, though. And these were Mark Peel's Top Chef scores for that dish:

Diners 4

Critics - Gael 4½, Gail 4, James 3½

Total 18½

Other dishes we had:
Fresh Pappardelle with Parsley, Wild Mushrooms, Spinach, Mascarpone

Seared Sea Scallops, bacon lardons, stewed leeks, lemon relish

Duck Breast with Garlic Mashed Potatoes (I think)

Chocolate Cake and a Pavlova (mmmmm):

Another stellar meal that could have been the star of the entire trip (if I weren’t so spoiled and had so many culinary highlights) was
Michael’s. Open since 1979, it has embodied “California Cuisine” for decades. The garden is the place to sit and since it was a Monday night, we had our choice of tables.

The food was incredible. The service was friendly and warm, yet unobtrusive.

House-Cured Gravlax, Toasted Brioche, Mustard-Dill Sauce

The salmon gravlax was so buttery and luscious that I could have made a meal of it.

Wild Quinault River Salmon Tartare Jicama, Avocado, Oro Blanco Granita

The salmon tartar was a work of art. It was so gorgeous and the salmon itself was freshness-personified. I would have liked a bit more of a punch of flavor, but I admired every bite.

White Asparagus with Serrano Ham

The White Asparagus with Serrano Ham was a special that evening. Even though I lived in Spain through several springs and always ordered it in season, I actually preferred the similarly shaped, but crunchier and more flavorful, hearts of palm. THIS dish though was a lovely balance between the asparagus, the ham and the Parmesan.

Liberty Farms Duck Breast, Leg & Thigh Confit, Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi, Asparagus, Roasted Garlic, Duck Jus

The duck breast was rare, as ordered, and just perfect and the skin was lovely and crunchy. But I wish they had just forgotten about the confited leg. It was the first time I had ever had a DRY duck leg. It almost seemed like an afterthought. Luckily, the breast was the star.

Wild Steelhead Salmon, Creamy Polenta, Manila Clams, Chorizo, Scallions, Blue Lake Beans

Moist and really tasty salmon (3 salmon dishes in one meal was definitely not too many). The dot of polenta under the fish was bland and a bit too runny.

Roasted Oregon Black Cod, Butternut Squash Risotto, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Poached Cherry Tomatoes, Beurre Blanc

WHY didn't I take pictures of the Trio of Sorbets and Ice Creams and the Bread Pudding? I must have been in a fabulous food coma. Okay, that's it. Until the post that follows this one...

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

CA Food

California isn’t just the land of marathons and reality tv (actually those can be anywhere), it also is the home of beautiful, fresh, tempting food at any price point.

In oceanside Santa Monica, we had a lovely meal at Buddha’s Belly. Gayot describes it as being Asian-inspired. It’s more Asian than that, but the dishes do have a much more modern spin than your local sushi/Chinese place. I didn't taste everything, but I would definitely go back.

Chilled Vietnamese Rolls - Rice paper rolls filled with shrimp, chicken, rice noodles, mint, cilantro, and fried onions rolled in rice paper with sweet chili & sake reduction dipping sauces. They were chock full of great things. The slightly bland (not a bad thing) rolls were delicious with the two sauces.

Ahi Tuna and Avocado Tempura Roll - Ahi tuna rolled up with avocado with shiso leaves, battered and deepfried. They were served with a tobanjan (hot Chinese miso paste) sauce and ponzu drizzle. Crunchy on the outside, smooth on the outside. TOO GOOD!

Pad Thai - a savory mixture of shrimp, chicken breast, tofu, rice noodles, scrambled eggs, bean sprouts, cilantro and peanuts.

Japanese-Style Baked Alaskan Black Cod - served in a Bento box with a miso marinade, edamame sushi rice, cucumber salad and broccoli.

Grilled Shrimp So yummy, slightly charred on the outside, perfectly cooked.


205 Broadway (Second St.)
Santa Monica, CA 90401
310-458-2500

My "little" girl and I had lunch one day at Locanda del Lago on the Third Street Promenade. We split a Chicken Panini and Insalata Cesare con Salmone. The Focaccia Panini had a jalepeno aioli which was out of this world. The Caesar salad was creamy and cheesy, even if the salmon was a bit overcooked. Its accompanying Parmesan Pizza Bread was super thin and crisp and a wonderful accompaniment.




231 Arizona Avenue
Santa Monica, CA 90401
310 451 3525

We also spent a few days in Palm Springs and had a super duper extravagant meal with friends at Wally's Desert Turtle.

Wow, what a gorgeous place! It certainly is the prettiest restaurant we went to on this trip. From the outside you see lots of mirrors and twinkling lights. The inside is gilded, mirrored and upholstered to every inch of its life. But it's done so well that you feel as if you're in another era, one that's much more elegant and refined.

The food isn't revolutionary, but it's a beautifully prepared American menu with a California spin of fresh and excellent ingredients.




Oregon Artichoke stuffed with Blue Crab and Smoked Salmon with Lemon Caper Dressing


California Baby Iceberg with Vine-Ripened Tomato & Parmesan Twist with Blue Cheese Dressing

Funnily, Mark Bittman just wrote about how good iceberg lettuce is in a salad.


Jumbo shrimp, avocado and capers


Roasted Maple Leaf Duck Breast with Smoked Bacon and Braised Cabbage, Medjool Date and Marsala Sauce The duck was sooo tender and cooked exactly as I ordered it, medium rare.


Sauteed Filet of Beef with Shallot and Sherry Fondue


Roasted Colorado Rack of Lamb


Sautéed Dover Sole Amandine


Key Lime Pie with Citron Sauce
Great pie, but it could have been a bit tarter.

Valrhona Chocolate Souffle
Sorry for the fuzzy picture, but, gosh, was it good. I loved the chocolate sauce they poured into the center,.


71-775 Highway 111
Rancho Mirage, California 92270
760-568-9321


A couple more restaurants coming soon...