Sunday, April 3, 2011
Top Chef All-Stars - Were You As Sure As I Was Who Was Going To Win?
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Top Chef Just Desserts - A Strawberry Filled Cake Does Not A Fraisier Make Plus Dessert Wars
Top Chef Just Desserts - Dessert Wars
The episode starts with the usual - Heather is being kind of full of herself. Then Yigit is kind of full of himself. Oh, and Morgan is DEFINITELY full of himself. Is there a pattern here?
Gail greets them in the kitchen with Johnny and says that there are no more immunity wins in the Quickfire Challenges.
They’re doing the Mis En Place Quickfire and funnily enough, just by chance, “Team Diva” is working together, which leaves Morgan, Danielle and Eric on the other team.
The chefs have to form 12 perfect tart shells and pipe 8 perfect buttercream roses; then they have to separate and whip 6 eggs (by hand) until they’re firm enough to stay IN the bowl when it’s turned upside down for 10 seconds. THEN, as a team, they have to stretch strudel dough over the entire length of the table and put together a strudel.
Each member of the winning team will get $3000. That’s pretty sweet.
Danielle and Yigit do the tart shells for their respective teams. Interestingly, Danielle is beating him and whipping them out like crazy. She finishes first. Yigit has to correct some poorly made shells before he can move on.
Eric gets a start on the roses. Heather is next for Team Diva to do the roses and she finishes before Eric.
Zac tackles the egg whites and he beats and beats and beats, while Morgan beats his while barely breaking a sweat. Morgan finishes first and holds the whites over his head. Zac finishes a few seconds later. Both teams move on to the strudel dough. Team Diva finishes first. They are delirious. I don’t like them…at all.
Gail announces the Elimination Challenge – the first ever Dessert Wars. Each team will open a Dessert Shop with each chef being responsible for making three items. One of each team’s dishes has to be a bread item.
They look at their adjoining spaces. There's a nice display case on each side. Morgan and Danielle argue about decor. Danielle, surprisingly, is not at all annoying. In fact, I quite like her. Maybe she just seems normal in comparison to Morgan, but for whatever reason, she seems like a perfectly sane regular person.
Heather is describing the challenge to us saying that Team Diva is on one side and Team Loser is on the other. She is NOT a nice person. We also hear from her (for the first time) that 2 of the dishes have to be à la minute. I wonder why Gail didn’t say that.
Morgan is bellyaching about Yigit taking all the lemons. Who cares, just cook. Morgan is cursing up a storm and basically losing it because of all he has to get done.
Back at the house, Eric says,” Do we have to have a talk?” Luckily, Morgan comes back down to earth and says, “Yeah, it would go something like I’m sorry, we’re f#$%ed.” Eric is worried that Morgan is going to bring their team down and he says this is the first challenge he cares about.
The next day they have 2 hours to finish their prep and set up everything. Yigit opens the refrigerator and a bowl of whipped cream falls out all over him. They all rush to finish everything. Eric’s team seems pretty well organized and Team Diva is still running around.
Folks arrive and Yigit and Zac both are taking the front of the house duties, while Heather stays back in the kitchen to do the cooked-to-order dishes. Yigit tells us that Heather is not the best person to have in the front of the house. Ya think?
Danielle and Eric are in the dessert shop and Morgan is in the back assembling last minute items.
The judges arrive. They go to Team Diva’s shop, Pastry Playland, first. Dumb name. Nancy Silverton is a guest judge along with Hubert Keller. Cool. He has such a glimmer in his eye.
Johnny likes Team Diva’s table decorations of lollipops and tulips in a vase filled with yellow jelly beans. Hubert, however, has a real problem with how empty their display case is. There is a big baker’s rack right behind it with lots of baked goods, but hardly anything in the glass-enclosed pastry case. Gail concurs and says it looks sad.
Here are all the dishes.
Yigit introduces the dishes to the judges. He’s reasonably affable.
They like Yigit’s Margarita sorbet. But, um, what part of sorbet says PASTRY shop to you? You don’t see those crazy kids over at Carlo's Bakery making sorbet.
They notice that Yigit’s dough for his chocolate tart is really hard to cut through and unevenly rolled. In fact, Hubert almost broke the plate trying to work at it. (Heather made and rolled out the dough.)
Yigit’s last dessert is a Fraisier, not pronounced like the television show, but like the French word for strawberry. But no matter how you say it, YIGIT’S CAKE IS NO FRAISIER!
I’m all for innovation and interesting takes on classic recipes, but no matter what else it includes, a Fraisier requires cut strawberries arranged along the outside edge of the cake.
Yigit made a layer cake and then threw a bunch of strawberries on the INSIDE. He did arrange beautifully-made white chocolate leaves (I think) around the edge, but he shouldn’t have called it a Fraisier then.
Oh goodie, Hubert agrees with me. He says when you hear Fraisier, it should look a certain way and this cake doesn’t. “HERE the visual was not Fraisier,” Hubert says.
Zac goes in the kitchen and tells Heather to give him the plates for the judges. She tells him to shut up a few times. She’s so NOT charming.
Hubert notices fingerprints on Heather’s frozen dessert. That’s pretty bad, isn’t it? And
Just as the judges are about to arrive at Whisk Me Away, the other team’s pastry shop, Eric runs into the kitchen to see what he can do for some guy who’s allergic to sugar and nuts. Morgan whips something up, because he doesn’t “work at the NO factory,” but that leaves a long line building up.
The judges come in and see a hole in the service. That can’t be good. I can’t tell if they actually wait in the line or just cut and get in the front.
Danielle is perfectly sweet attending to them, but later Gail says she showed low energy. I think she was okay, even though she didn’t personally escort them to the table.
Even though Hubert doesn’t usually love layer cakes, he says Eric’s buttercream is “really well done”.
Hubert says Eric’s banana bread is not browned enough. Johnny has a more serious problem with it. “The proportion of chemical leaveners is off a little bit.” Did he take a baking soda meter and measure the levels? Gail says the flavor is “really nice”.
Next up are Danielle’s desserts. They love Danielle’s homemade ginger ale. How did she do that, I wonder? But
The judges love Morgan’s lemon fried pie. They like the distinct lemon flavor. Morgan’s pretzel stick looks absolutely burned, but no one says anything. Johnny loves the fact that he seems to have brushed it with butter. I guess the butter made up for the overcooking.
For Morgan’s last dessert, a chocolate mousse cake, Johnny says, ”The construction…is just perfect.”
Back at Judges’ Table, they all get called it.
She makes the same kind of ugly screwed-up face that my son makes sometimes and I have to say to him, “STOP IT, no girl is going to want you with that face”. Danielle, stop it!
She says she’s sorry he felt that way and that she just felt their place was casual. Johnny makes the good point that just because the food is casual doesn’t mean the service should be. I, 100%, believe that, but I don’t think Danielle was that bad.
BTW, I’m much more apt to jump on poor service than poor food. I can’t actually remember when I’ve had REALLY bad food in a restaurant. Really bad service, on the other hand, is a dime a dozen.
The judges dump on Eric’s banana bread and
I love
They move on to the other team. Zac makes the point that THEIR desserts were complex and not like at “a grab and go bakery”. He’s obviously hinting that the other team’s desserts were too simple, especially after Eric said that they concentrated on homey desserts.
Hubert loved Zac’s doughnut, but not the milkshake, which Hubert says was of a different caliber (as in worse).
Heather says overall she was happy with her frozen key lime bar. Good for her, but the judges felt differently. Hubert tells her about the fingerprints. Johnny says the key lime flavor was weak.
Yigit says his pastry shell was a little bit thick. Johnny corrects him and says it was A LOT thick. Hubert says the pastry was too hard, which was “a shame because the ganache was sensational”. Let’s see if Heather speaks up.
Before anyone can say anything, Johnny asks if Heather and Yigit used the same dough. Yigit says yes and Heather immediately says she wants to defend Yigit and that the pastry was hers. At least, Heather’s not a complete snake.
Gail mentions that their showcase was virtually empty. Zac says right before the judges got there, they were really busy and didn’t have time to refill it.
Gail asks whose responsibility the display case was. Zac instantly says that they were a team and they’ll win or lose together. That’s kind of a moronic thing to say when, same team or not, it’s only ONE person who will go home.
They go back in with the judges and it’s…Heather who goes home. Who would have thunk that? That Heather would go home before Danielle? Quite an intriguing outcome, but I don’t disagree. Each of Heather’s desserts had a problem.
The worst part was that in the stew room Yigit starts crying…no, he's weeping…NO, HE’S WAILING. This is awkward.
The preview features Yigit A LOT, so I’m wondering if he’s the next to go. We’ll have to wait and see which way the cookie crumbles…
Friday, August 21, 2009
Top Chef Masters - Who Reigned Supreme?
Rick, Hubert and MC are in a car going to the coast. They have no idea where they’re going. They arrive at The Getty Villa. It’s beautiful. Michael says the better the view, the tougher the challenge.
Kelly greets them in front of a beautiful pool. She congratulates them for getting this far and tells them this week it’s all about history, THEIR history as chefs. They will create the meal of THEIR lifetime -“Create a series of dishes based on your career as a chef.” Fabulous.
No tricks, no practical jokes, just fantastic cooking (so far). And how wonderful that each chef has such a distinct “culinary point of view” (to quote another food show) and that they are able to cook from their strength, rather than in a dorm room shower, as Hubert did when he rinsed the pasta.
The first dish, Kelly continues, should be inspired by their first food memory. They all like the idea A LOT. The second dish will be from the experience that made them decide to become a chef.
Rick tells us this doesn’t even feel like this is a challenge, but like something he’d love the opportunity to do anyway. MC has lots of ideas cooking.
The third dish should reflect the opening of their first restaurant. The final dish should represent where they’ll be heading in the future.
What a lovely challenge. Let’s hope they don’t ruin it with some dumb twist like having to do each other’s recipes. Or being blindfolded or cooking with one hand. Wait, they’ve already done those.
“Essentially, you’re on Biography with four dishes,” Kelly concludes. Michael says, “It’s a sweet spot for me. I’m a storyteller. I own each and every one of those emotions in my heart.” Awww, I like this…
We learn that the Top Chef judges will be joining the critics as will all five winners of Top Chef. And really is there absolutely no hokiness, no tricks, no trompe l'oeil? Could this be true?
The chefs sit and enjoy a beautiful meal laid out for them in the gorgeous poolside area, while they talk about they are going to do. Hubert says his memory is from
Hubert
1st course - “First Food Memory”
Baeckeoffe: Alsatian Lamb, Beef, Pork & Potato Stew
Hubert tells us that Monday was laundry day (down by the river) and that the town women didn’t have time to cook that day. Hubert’s father (the baker) would put 40 of these stews in his shop's oven for the ladies, so they would have a meal ready when they were finished doing their washing.
Rick
1st course - “First Food Memory”
Barbecued Smoked Quail With
Rick thought barbecue sauce ran through his veins for the first 15 years of his life, because of his parents’ barbecue restaurant in
Michael
1st course - “First Food Memory”
Crispy Potato Gnocchi With Fonduta & Ricotta Gnocchi With Tomato Sauce
He remembers making gnocchi with his mother, standing up on a box to reach the counter. He says chefs tell stories through food.
I am NOT saying I feel this way, but I can see how MC-detractors would (perhaps) liken Michael’s constant reference to storytelling to Jeffrey’s “Cooking Without Borders” mantra. NOT that they belong in the same sentence…but I’m just saying.
Rick says it’s the story of his life on a plate. Hubert says memories are one thing, but they have to pull off the dishes.
They go shopping. Michael says he’s scrappy and that Rick’s Mexican food is amazing and Hubert is a master technician.
Hubert spends over a thousand dollars. We don’t hear what the others spend.
They have five hours to cook.
Rick says his biggest challenge is his second dish, which he remembers from a trip to
Rick
2nd course - “Becoming A Chef”
Ahi Tuna With Oaxacan Black Mole, Plantain Tamale & Grilled Nopales
Michael
2nd course - “Becoming A Chef”
Polenta With Rabbit, Asparagus & Wild Mushroom, Grilled Duck & Rabbit Liver Spiedini
MC says his family loved to go mushroom hunting and they might see a rabbit and that would become the evening meal.
Hubert
2nd course - “Becoming A Chef”
Salmon Soufflé, Royal Osetra Caviar & Riesling Sauce, Choucroute Flan
Hubert did his apprenticeship at L’Auberge d’Ile. He tells us that it’s the only 3 star restaurant in that part of
Michael says he wants to win the money for Latino immigrants and since his family also came to the
They come back the next day with 2½ hours to prep. Oy! Rick finds a note saying they have one final surprise for them. They have to watch a video. Hubert’s sous chef, Laurent Pillard, is there wishing him good luck. Nick Ritchie, Michael’s sous chef gives him a message. Brian Enyart, Rick’s sous chef, is so excited Rick is in the finals. THEN the doors open and all three walk in. (These guys are sous chefs for this challenge, but they are the Master Chefs’ chefs de cuisine in real life.) Hubert is totally surprised. That’s nice. Michael asks who’s running the restaurant?
Michael
3rd course - “First Restaurant Opening”
Whole Fried Ginger Stuffed Marinated Rouget, Mango Salad, Fresh Wasabi & Bottarga
This was a dish from 1984 from a progressive new American restaurant in
Rick
3rd course - “First Restaurant Opening”
Achiote-Marinated Cochinita Pibil With Sunchoke Purée, Crispy Pig’s Feet & Pickled Red Onion
In 1987, Rick and his wife opened La Frontera on a shoestring and he picked a dish from that time. This pork dish is so complex it’s difficult to tell you even what’s in it or how it’s made. It looks like squares of pressed-down meat chunks, fried in lard(?)
Hubert
3rd course - “First Restaurant Opening”
Hubert brings out the big guns – HUGE black truffles. He tells us he and his wife opened Fleur de Lys 23 years ago in SF. (Rick says truffles are just expensive, not special.)
He embeds a garlic clove in the center of the lamb. Hubert says he blanches the garlic cloves in 3 different changes of water to take away any bitterness.
Rick is really passionate about winning for his organization, Frontera Farmer Foundation.
Michael
4th course - “Where You’re Heading As A Chef”
Brined Short Ribs With 5 Onion Cavalo Nero & Essence Of Smoldering Vines
Michael is using the smoldering vines from his vineyard. That says something about “the style of life from
Rick
4th course - “Where You’re Heading As A Chef”
Arroz A La Tumbada With Lobster, Crab, Squid, Mussels & Shrimp, Tomato-Jalapeño Broth & Chorizo “Air”
Rick says this represents a new stage in his life. He takes dishes apart and puts them back together in a different way. His sous chef appears to have overcooked his seafood. That makes Rick rather discouraged.
I was just thinking his food is so complex, he really could win, but now we have a hint that there may be problems. I’m still going to say Hubert will win. But I think these are going to be three rather fantastic meals.
Hubert
4th course - “Where You’re Heading As A Chef”
Pan-Seared Sweetbreads With Perigord Truffles On Scrambled Eggs & Spinach, Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks & Celery Purée With Pinot Noir, Lemongrass & Ginger Sauce
Hubert thinks the future is cooking and serving affordable cuts of meat in this recession. I love Hubert speaking French to his sous chef.
Michael says that James from Saveur has often challenged his food during Top Chef Masters. MC takes pictures from Saveur and burns the edges. He uses them as doilies.
On to the actual tasting. Kelly is kinda gorgeous as she introduces the critics, the Top Chef judges and all the former Top Chef winners - Hung, Harold, Ilan, Hosea (ugh!) and Stephanie. Could Kelly be more stunning than Padma? Just maybe, but we have no idea what Kelly knows about food.
1st course
They love Michael’s gnocchi. Tom says his mother was Calabrese like MC’s family and he likes HIS family’s sauce, but that this one is great too. “Really well made.”
James says Hubert’s stew looks awesome, “You feel he’s been cooking this stew since he was a child.” Tom: “Wonderful.”
About Rick’s quail, “The barbecue sauce rocks.” Gael loves the sprouts. Hosea says as a food memory that would probably be his favorite. What does that mean? And what does HE know anyway?
2nd course
Rick says it’s taken 20 years for him to know how to make the mole properly.
Of Michael’s polenta, Hosea says it’s amazing. (Okay, so he gets one thing right.) Gail says there’s “a primalness” to it and she wants to bathe in it. (Alrighty then…) Jay says, “I could spoon that away until the cows came home, milk the cows and gone back for more.”
They love the mousseline sauce on Hubert’s salmon. Ilan or Harold (I don’t know the difference) is amazed by it and it makes whoever it is want to learn more about French cuisine.
About Rick’s mole, James says it’s very good. Gale: “I’ve never eaten mole so good.” James: “You can almost taste everyone of those 15 or 10 or 21 ingredients.” Tom: “If this is what inspired him to cook Mexican food, then it’s brilliant.”
3rd course
MC’s rouget: They love the crunch of the fish, but some Top Chef winner guy says it’s one dimensional.
Hung says Hubert’s lamb is cooked perfectly, as well as everything else. Tom does not like the “raw” garlic. Hubert told us it was blanched. Padma says there is a little too much vanilla and it is too much “reminiscent of a dessert” for her. Oh good, so maybe Michael can pull it out OR Rick will triumph. Hmmm.
Hosea: “Rick is speaking my language here.” Gael says the sunchoke purée is much more sophisticated than she thought it would be. Padma says we don’t think of Mexican food as being sophisticated but there is nothing unsophisticated about Rick’s food.
4th course
Rick says his tumbado is like “a soupy paella”, with all different kinds of seafood.
Michael says the old part of the dish is the short ribs and the new Michael is looking to tell stories with food, so he uses Cabernet cuttings to give you “a walk through the air of the wine inside the sauce”. Okay, maybe I heard that wrong, but I get what he meant.
Jay doesn’t love Rick’s Tumbado: “This is not Rick’s greatest dish, which is summed up by the foam, which is like elderly granny at a wedding putting on a spandex hot pants suit.” Okay, we get it, he feels it’s an old-fashioned preparation trying too hard to be modern.
Tom likes it, but thinks it suffered after having to get 12 plates out of the kitchen. He says the mussel is dried out.
James says Michael’s short ribs are really good.
Padma says, “Michael just stole my heart and ran away with it.” WAIT JUST ONE COTTON PICKIN’ SECOND, PADMA! HE’S MINE. Okay, so at the beginning of this post, I didn’t think he would win, but I CHANGE MY MIND!!!
IT’S MICHAEL ALL THE WAY AND I CAN’T BELIEVE HE (and I) CAME THIS FAR AND doubted him. Forgive me, Michael. I don’t doubt him now. He’s going to bring it on home.
Ilan (Harold?): “I love the little basil on top and the sauce.” Jay bought into the whole story-telling thing, “He’s the preeminent story teller that we’ve come across. EVERYTHING has a story.” I think I’m in love all over again. Michael says whoever wins they’ll split it. Rick agrees. Really?!!
The critics are impressed by the amount of truffles in Hubert’s dish. But do they like it? Harold (Ilan?): “I thought the sweetbread was super undercooked.” James: “MY sweetbread was FINE!”
Tom: “All in all, (this was) an embarrassment of riches.” The critics leave, while the diners fill out the cards.
I think it’s Michael. I think it’s Michael. I think it’s Michael.
I got an email from him reminding me to watch this week. Why would he have sent that out if he hadn’t won? And the one week he was kind of pissy, there was no email alert.
The chefs appear in front of the critics.
Jay says to Michael, “Wow, what a piece of braised beef that was!” James: “I really appreciate the spare confidence with which you presented the dish.” Hubert looks worried. Michael says it’s a very complicated preparation, presented very simply. Jay: “There was a lot of cooking on that plate.” Gael: “Mine was perfection, amazing.” MC looks pleased, actually he says he’s ecstatic.
They do, however, have questions about the rouget. James says it may have been too literal an interpretation of the dish he did all those years ago. I thought it actually WAS the SAME dish. Jay asks about the power of the olive oil in the mango salad. Oh Puleez! Just give him the trophy and let’s crack open the champers. Michael explains that the mango salad wasn’t meant to stand alone.
On to Hubert’s stew – James: “I thought the dish was stunning… all that great fragrance”. Hubert says it is a homey dish and the smell of it fills up the whole house. Gael wants to know if, when he took it out of the oven, it brought back memories. Hubert answers, “Right away, it did.” Jay: “I loved it. It was dense and rich and luscious.”
Hubert explains that in the lamb dish, you blanch the garlic three times and when you’re eating it you barely know it’s there. Jay looks amazed. James says it was surprising to learn it was blanched that many times and that his piece was verging on raw. Kelly says the sauce has too much vanilla. Hubert says it was a risk. James does say Hubert was challenging his palate.
They get to Rick’s food and uh-oh! Gael says she’s prejudiced against air. James says the seafood was a bit overcooked. Rick looks crestfallen, but then James says HATS OFF TO YOU (he kinda yells it) for trying to take this homey classic someplace else.
Jay says Rick’s mole is “the most extraordinary dish. You can’t quite identify what it is, but it’s everything at the same time.”
Rick looks so happy and thrilled. Gael says it worked for her and that she was shivering all over from that dish. I’ll have what she’s having. James: “The tamales were killer.”
Jay: “I lost my mole virginity”. Hey, hold it! I don’t wanna hear THAT…from HIM! I hope he doesn’t mean he never had mole before. What is he doing judging Top Chef?
The chefs go wait in the kitchen. The critics discuss not loving Michael’s rouget. They say Hubert went right to the mother lode of his childhood, but the soufflé wasn’t quite there, even though the salmon was perfectly cooked. Gael thinks the lamb was extraordinary, but the garlic was too raw. James: “You feel so safe when Hubert is cooking for you.” Does he want a daddy or dinner?
Jay says, “Rick took us to the place that has basically inspired everything he has ever done since.” Gael: “It’s only when he tells you that its taken him 20 years to perfect that sauce that you realize how complex that dish it.” Jay wants to just make “guttural noises” to express his pleasure. They didn’t like Rick’s seafood stew, but Jay says Rick did show them that you can put chorizo and seafood together. He showed how layers of flavor work.
Back in the kitchen, Rick tells Hubert and Michael that it was a pleasure to cook with them. They all agree. MC says next time he’d like to do it without the cameras or the clocks.
After the break they show shocking results of the poll on who should win: Hubert 42%; Michael 15%; Rick 43%. That is only because Michael had that one little spate of being a tad difficult and know-nothings think that completely defines him. AND he was absolutely right to ask the chefs to show him their chopping skills. So there!
And the results:
Hubert
Diners 4
James 4½
Gael 4
Jay 4
Total 16 1/2
Michael
Diners 4½
James 3½
Gael 4½
Jay 4½
Total 17
Hubert is NOT the winner. THAT would have been a surprise last week.
Rick
Diners 4½
James 4½
Gael 4½
Jay 4½
Total 18
Rick wins. I’m surprised…not shocked…but surprised. He gets hugs from his fellow chefs. He’s thrilled because he has says he has no formal training. Hubert is happy because he’s walking away with the $20,000. (What happened to splitting it?) Rick says his father was a pit master and now HE’S a Top Chef Master. He’s such a nice guy, you can’t help but be delighted for him.
If editing is everything, they certainly led us to believe that Michael was going to win at first. Then they switched that to make us believe that Hubert had the inside track to winning. THEN during THIS episode, they absolutely contrived the editing to make it look like Michael had it. When Padma had palpitations over his food, it was clear he would triumph, as it was clear from Gael’s remarks about being fed up with foam that Rick would lose.
What we saw at the dining table was not reflected by what we heard at critics table. The critics gave far higher marks than one would have expected from their comments. I don’t disagree with their choice, but just as the challenge itself had no ridiculous dumb twists and turns (just for the sake of drama or p’ing off the chefs), so the final result shouldn’t have looked like a huge surprise. In a way, that denigrates Rick’s incredible meal. If they felt his masterful mole was really the tour de force of the night, they should have made that clear throughout.
Ah, but these are small points. I loved Top Chef Masters. I loved seeing chefs I admire in different, sometimes crazy, situations. I wish MC hadn’t had a momentary meltdown, just because folks that were not acquainted with him now may have a bad impression of him. But, overall, it was a great concept and a great show. Regular Top Chef can’t be anything but a disappointment after this.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Top Chef – Hubert Gets Kinky, Rick Is A Sweetie, Anita’s Fish Are Suspect And A Defense Of Michael - YEAH! That’s what I said! Wanna fight about it?!
The chefs enter the kitchen and Kelly reminds them that this is their last Quickfire Challenge. It is? I forgot that the final has 3 chefs in it. I’m going to miss this series of Top Chef when it’s over and, in particular, my Michael.
The Quickfire is again one from a previous Top Chef. They have to taste and identify 20 things blindfolded (that IS kind of gross and goes against everything that my mother always warned me about).
Hubert is worried, because he says zat a chef eets first with his eyes. Kelly says someone or other won when she identified an umeboshi plum. Michael laughs and says to his fellow chefs, “I’ve never even HEARD of it.” Rick is relieved he doesn’t have to come up with a dish in 30 minutes. Anita admits that last week it could have been her as easily as Art chosen to go.
MC goes first. He does abysmally. How could he not know what hoisin sauce tastes like? And he does equally badly with any other Asian ingredient. He admits he works with “a narrow scope of ingredients”. This may be bad news for Mikie. Oy!
Hubert a little kinky? Yup, when he says “Kelly putting the blindfold on me… that was probably the best part of the challenge.” He seems to be doing pretty well.
Even Anita misses the hoisin sauce, by the way.
The results: Hubert guessed 5 correctly which gave him 3½ stars; Rick and Anita both guessed 6 right. They get 4 stars. And Michael? He wins by guessing 7 correctly. He receives FIVE stars! Yay!!!
Kelly says being a chef means hiring the right staff and they’ll be provided with some sous-chefs to help them. They get to choose among 12 former contestants and they have to cater a lunch the next day for 200 people. The chefs are allowed to interview each sous-chef for 2 minutes before they make their selections.
Michael has the brilliant idea of asking each chef to chop for him. SO smart. Wait a sec. He IS coming off a bit hard-bitten. Jamie is scared by him.
Rick and Hubert are all palsy-walsy with the chefs. Rick wants to know what their experience is with Mexican food. Hubert wants to know about French food and pastry experience. Anita likes Jamie, because she used to work for him.
Michael keeps asking the chefs to demonstrate their chopping. Fabio is there. THAT’S nice. He says, ”I can tell this dude is Italian, ‘cause he’s making everybody running around him like chicken with no head.” Michael's busy ordering the chefs to do a brunoise out of batons.
Spike is giving MC a hard time about dicing. Spike assures him that he knows how to do it. Mike tells us that there he is no way he’d pick Spike.
Wow, this is a different side to Michael. We’ve only seen him as a host and fantastic chef so far. We’ve never seen him as a boss. MC then asks every chef what his (Michael’s) name is. Is he testing them to say Chiarello correctly or does he want them to say chef? A little of both it looks like. Richard Blaise, molecular gastronomy guy, says Michael is really annoying.
The chefs get to pick their sous-chefs in rounds. Betty says everyone loves Chef Hubert Keller and wants to be with him and no one wants to be with Michael Chiarello. She mispronounces his name. See? He was right to test them.
Michael gets to pick first. He picks Fabio. Rick picks Richard. Anita picks Jamie. Hubert picks Antonia first. Betty is picked second to last. And Spike is completely last. Spike says he’s not bothered. He says obviously the chefs didn’t want him to outshine them. Yeah, sure, Spike, keep thinking that.
Rick and Hubert ask the opinions of the sous-chefs in what to make. They’re so nice. What a pair of Goodie-Two-Shoes…Just kidding. Michael TELLS his sous-chefs what to do. He says he doesn’t have time to get to know them, culinarily speaking.
2 members of each team go to Whole Foods and the others go to Restaurant Depot. They get back to the kitchen and they have 3½ hours to prep. Everyone but Michael rushes to cram their stuff in the fridge. Michael calls Dale “Young Man” as he’s telling him to make room in the fridge. Dale takes issue with that. “For the first 20 years of my career, I ate 3 Dales for breakfast. He is way out of his league.” Dale gets in his face and we don’t actually see what happens. It's kind of anticlimactic, but I guess Michael walked away.
Hubert says he likes to mentor his employees and that Michael has a different approach. Michael says (to us), “I want to get in the finals, damn it.”
I feel ambivalent here. I suppose it’s true that if any other chef were acting the same way, I’d call him or her out. But I really do think that that was clever of Michael to want to see the chefs dice. Knife skills do tell a lot.
I want to digress just a sec, in defense of my Mikie.
When I got out of cooking school and came back to
I went over to see him, and Chef Fitoussi asked where I went to cooking school. THEN the only other thing he asked of me was to chop an onion.
I passed his test, because he could see that I been taught properly, i.e. the FRENCH way: Trim the onion, cut in half and peel, make the first cuts horizontal to the work surface, second ones perpendicular, then chop.
BTW, I had a job with a friend of his 2 hours later and ever since then, I've always looked at chopping style as a clue to a chef’s training. (Don’t tell anyone, but I mostly do NOT chop onions that way anymore…unless a chef is watching.)
One other thing. This is kind of what I was hoping for. I wanted to see the REAL Michael. I wanted to see how he was. How he operated. What he was like.
Yeah, he was a bit of a brute. But he wasn’t in his own kitchen and he had been presented with a bunch of underlings and his first response was to LEAD them. To be a chef. That’s WHAT a chef is. You can’t be a chef ALONE in your kitchen. It literally means CHIEF, leader or boss. (Oh! Am I yelling? Sorry.)
You could argue that he could have led more effectively, but you’re not going to get any Michael-hating here. I prefer to think of it like this: It’s not that HE was super-bad, it was that the others were super-nice. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
Blais is such a ninny. He describes Rick’s cooking and his own as being “rustic Mexican meets molecular gastronomy”. Was it on Top Chef that some judge once referred to molecular gastronomy as being soul-less? I don’t necessarily agree with that, but I do think a one trick pony gets a bit old.
Anita realizes she’s made a mistake picking Jamie, because she’s taking too long cleaning the seafood for the raw bar. Jamie tells us Anita isn’t organizing well and that the chef still hasn’t told them what’s on the menu.
Why is there a commercial for the new season of Top Chef next Wednesday? Are they showing that and the finale of the TCM on the same night? Yup, that’s exactly what they’re doing. And they’re supersizing the first episode of Top Chef Las Vegas and giving only 45 minutes to Top Chef Masters.
Kelly comes in the next day with 2½ hours to go and tells them there’s a twist. OH no, please don’t make it that the sous chefs are switching teams and Michael is getting Dale! PLEASE NO!
Anita looks REALLY po’ed. Think Jamika having her pineapple taken away from her.
Kelly says the location of their lunch has been changed to the SLS Hotel and they have 30 minutes to pack up all their food and then 2 ½ hours to finish cooking. Whew, I’m actually relieved. They stay on their same teams. Unfortunately, though, the lunch is being served outside, which they didn’t know. Richard says Michael is going crazy and Rick is being calm and cool. Richard, stop being such a little tattle-tale and just do what you have to do!
Kelly shows them the space and it’s completely in the sun. Anita says she would never have chosen a raw bar. THEN Kelly says they have to get rid of one sous chef. Fabio remarks, “I’m sweating like a mountain goat at the beach and she’s telling us we have to get rid of one chef.”
Michael is nice when he gets rid of Brian, because he had finished his mis en place. Hubert gets rid of Spike. Rick deep sixes Betty and Anita is almost gleeful to ditch Jamie.
They all get it done. These
Rick is calm as a cucumber as he serves folks. Hubert is completely charming. Michael is not happy with the way his table looks.
The critics go to Anita’s table first and Kelly goes through the rigamarole of introducing the critics.
Anita - Asian Buffet With An Array Of Sauces & Condiments
Jay LOVES the braised pork rib, but isn’t sure there are enough good dishes on her buffet.
Michael - Rustic Italian Buffet
Gael doesn’t love the TASTE of the risotto, but she’s impressed with the cooking. They all agree the swordfish is odd and perhaps a bit old.
Hubert - 18 dish buffet
Hubert pulls out all the stops and prepared a huge buffet, including a Vietnamese Gazpacho. We never learn exactly what’s in it, but I love the idea of a gazpacho with Southeast Asian flavors. He says to us he would be disappointed to go home, because he thinks things went well. The judges are super impressed with his dishes. Hubert thanks his sous chefs. (He would.)
Rick - Mexican Food Buffet
His dishes sound really good. Among them are an avocado bar, a tortilla soup and a pork dish. Rick gives Richard full credit for the avocado ice cream. Beautiful and wonderful say the critics. Rick says he couldn’t have asked for a better team. They’re really emphasizing that Rick and Hubert are nice guys and Michael? His approach was “different”, as Hubert said.
At Critics Table, Rick tells the critics that the best part of the challenge was getting to know his sous chefs. Is he really that nice? Closeup on Michael. Gael loved the shrimp with nuts and figs. Jay comments favorably on the avocado ice cream. He’s impressed that Rick let Richard run with it. Close up (again) on surly Michael.
Jay says Hubert presented a staggering array of dishes. Hubert says he wanted to make a feast with lots of things for people to taste. (Even I can tell that my MC is not coming off well in comparison to these two – they’re a cross between Mother Theresa and your favorite 3rd grade teacher.)
James: ”It didn’t taste like a thousand bucks. It tasted like a million bucks.” (More Michael close-ups, but more importantly, why are James’s lapels so shiny?)
Gael tells Anita her ribs were fabulous. The critics tell her that the raw bar might not have been a good idea under the circumstances and Anita says she didn’t have time to change her menu.
The critics’ questioning of Michael is weird and he’s a little weird. (See? I can be objective.) Kelly asks him if he was happy. He says - way too fast and without a trace of a smile - “I thought it worked out just fine”.
A little glimmer of his charming personality comes back when James asks him what he thinks was his most successful dish. He says the risotto. James says he did not like the taste of the shrimp. Michael takes that okay. Jay says there was a general question mark over the swordfish. He says he kept it hot and maybe that contributed to its texture. Gael says it tasted like old swordfish.
Rick made a point of telling us earlier that his sous chef suggested he go to the fish counter immediately to get the best fish. I guess Michael’s sous chefs could chop, but he didn’t quiz them on their common sense.
Kelly says the olive oil cake was too oily. MC says it needed more time in the oven and he had instructed his sous-chef to cut it only from the edge. Kelly asks how it was working with the Top Chef contestants. He says “My colleagues have more guts than I do. Cause I wouldn’t know how to say, here why don’t you go and take a dish?” Remember these are sous chefs that he doesn’t know.
The chefs go to wait in the kitchen. Jay says Rick was in his comfort zone today. They were all impressed with his cooking and his managing of his staff.
About Hubert, Jay says, “There was an immense precision in what he did. Inspired gazpacho.”
Okay, I have prediction. It’s not what I thought or hoped would happen. I predict that Hubert will take the big prize next week. He simply has it all. He’s unflappable. His cooking is flawless and his big advantage – he’s French.
Jay says there was a misstep in Anita’s menu. James: “Every dish had some kind of fundamental inadequacy to it.” Uh-oh what are they going to say about Michael?
Jay: ”There were ups and downs.” The critics didn’t like the prawn or swordfish. The olive oil cake was oily too. They don’t sound quite as down on Michael as on Anita, but who knows? I would say Anita is going home.
During the commercial is the answer to their quick poll question - Who would win a fist fight, Michael or Dale?
(Do they mean against each other or if they were fighting some random other person?)
1. Michael 74%
2. Dale 11%
3. It’s be more like a catfight 15%
(I don’t even know what that last thing that means.)
The chefs are called back in.
The critics tell Hubert and Rick they are the top finishers.
Rick
Quickfire 4
Diners 4½
James 4½
Gael 4
Jay 4½
Total 21 1/2
Hubert
Quickfire 3½
Diners 3½
James 5
Gael 5
Jay 5
Total 22
Hubert is the winner and he says the sous-chefs came up with some good stuff.
Anita
Quickfire 4
Diners 3
James 3
Gael 3½
Jay 3½
Total 17
Michael
Quickfire 5
Diners 3½
James 3
Gael 4
Jay 4
Total 19½
Whew!!! Thank goodness. Anita is told to pack her knives. Anita says the others were charming, and she’ll miss them.
In the previews in the final scene, Hubert looks 10 years younger.
I really think the three chefs that remain are the ones that should be there. And, alas, I do feel quite sure that Hubert will win, but I would love to be wrong.