Showing posts with label Lidia Bastianich. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lidia Bastianich. Show all posts

Monday, September 20, 2010

Eataly Is Eatravagant, Eatceptional, Eatsquisite

Okay, so the name doesn’t really lend itself to a catchy title…I guess I should have settled for Eataly Is Impressive.





Actually, when a friend first told me about Eataly, the new Mario Batali/Lidia and Joe Bastianich/Oscar Farinetti Italian food emporium across from Madison Square Park in New York City’s Flatiron District, she had to repeat and then SPELL the name numerous times.

At first, I thought she was mocking an Italian accent, sort of how Giada would pronounce the country of her forebears, until I realized my friend was saying it that way on purpose.

I still think it’s a silly name, but when I visited Eataly last week, I saw that the name DOES capture what is inside the place.

Eataly is a boisterous riot of food, noise and activity in a cavernous, nearly 40,000 square foot space. The folks who came for lunch - and there were LOTS of them - were very brave. Tables are squeezed in areas amongst aisles of food, dry goods, kitchenware and wine with loads of people passing through at every juncture.

There are also counters to perch at and tall tables to stand by, while inhaling the most luscious cheeses and paper-thin pieces of prosciutto, presented on wooden boards. And of course, there are dozens of wines (all Italian) to choose from. There is also one very long line, thankfully with multiple cashiers. It’s well-organized in one area near the exit.

BTW, their website is a complete mess. I did discover that there are other Eataly’s in Italy and Japan, but if you didn’t know what Eataly was, you wouldn’t really figure it out from the website, which appears to have been translated directly from the Italian:

Eataly’s philosophy, in this sense, is dual: on one hand we find the products offer, under distribution form as well as restaurant opportunity, while on the other hand you find a speech based on didactics and articulated on cooking classes, tastings, on classes of foods’ correct conservation, didactics for children. Huh? Whatever.

Eataly is all about Italian food (and wine) in all its forms. You can buy ingredients to cook later or you can order pizza, seafood or other Italian dishes in the several restaurants and counter areas and eat there. Here are all the food and dining options at Eataly.

You can also do what most of us were doing on Friday afternoon - walk around in a trance and gape at the gorgeous displays, the huge selection AND the massive crowds.

One disappointment – Any prepared or prepackaged food that you buy from a non-restaurant food counter can NOT be eaten there. You either dine at one their eateries or you take it away, which seems positively un-American, although New Yorkers have no problem eating anything on the street. (I once saw two guys eating an entire pizza as they walked up 8th avenue.)

Whether you’re after authentic Italian sundries, beautiful cured meats, fresh crusty focaccia, vegetables, gelato, pastries, cheeses, wines sold by the glass or in a dedicated wine store, coffee, pasta or pizza, OR Italian housewares OR books (Rizzoli has a branch), you will find it in Eataly.

Oh wait, there’s more! A rooftop beer garden will open in November and a cooking school, La Scuola (The dean? Lidia Bastianich, of course), will open in October.

I bought beautiful barley and some gorgeous black Venere rice. (That link refers to a different brand than the Filiera Riso Venere sold at Eataly.)

I LOVE Forbidden Rice and this is the Italian version. The water turns the same stunning purple color before cooking as Forbidden Rice does and it cooks up to a rich, deep, inky color. It has great texture and it would be a fitting accompaniment to cold weather meat dishes or cooked into a lusty risotto.

Honestly, I would have been happy if they’d called it, “Lidia and Mario-land” or “Batali/Bastianich Vittles”. I suppose Eataly does describe the entire operation in one word, but whatever it’s called, if you love Italian food or drink, this is the place for you.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Lidia, Master Teacher, Instructs Ann Curry (Playing Lucy Ricardo)

It wasn’t completely Ann’s fault as her pesto refused to come together in the blender. She just needed to add a bit of pasta water, which Lidia tells her…eventually.

Lidia was on Today to show 4 different pestos, but these were far more interesting than my usual variation of parsley and walnuts. I was just thinking about pesto recently after reading Rachel’s post.

Ann was first up with a mixture of garlic, cheese, ricotta, oil and walnuts. Lidia should have known she was in for trouble when Ann started to add BUTTER to the blender. Lidia was so concerned she asked Ann if she knew how to close the blender.

Next is a slinged Matt and a mixture, made in a mortar and pestle, using peas and mint and basil.

Al has a neat one with anchovies, raisins, basil, garlic while Ann is stripping the gears of the blender. BTW, it was Al who brought up the Lucy reference. His pesto sounded fantastic.

Natalie does a Sicilian pesto – garlic, tomatoes, almonds, basil and peperoncino.

Lidia moves on to having them dress the pasta. First they each mix their different pasta with a bit of butter (interesting, I don’t usually do that). Then they toss it with their own pesto. As they finish up, Lidia moves down the line hugging each one (she’s adorable); THEY hug each other; Al makes a move on the stage manager. It was a delicious segment…and the food looked good too.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Chefs Want Healthier Food Policies

Remember that dinner the night before inauguration day when Tom saved Joan Nathan’s life? That happened at a fundraiser for DC Central_Kitchen (among others). There were many renowned chefs in the room that night. They are hoping that Barack Obama will institute new policies that will improve the quality of our food supply and turn people away from processed foods and towards a diet of natural, more sustainable food.

Top Chef has been promoting the same platform. 2 weeks ago, the Elimination Challenge took place at Dan Barber’s restaurant and farm, which uses sustainable farming practices and wants to educate folks about where their food comes from.

Other chefs have specific ideas about food policy, many dealing with promoting small farms. Daniel Boulud thinks that small farms should have their own agency at the DOA, where their goals could be more easily implemented.


Lidia Bastianich says the government should carry out regulations that help, not hurt, small farmers and make it possible for them to compete with “the big giants”.

And our very own Tom doesn’t believe that these same giant farms should get as many subsidies and that GEO's should be labeled clearly.

That's all fine on a more global basis, but I personally would love to know what the Obama’s eat everyday – what cheese they like on their grilled cheese, if they drink organic milk; are their eggs cage-free? And does a boxed mix ever make it onto their shelves?


Those questions may never be answered and we’ll probably have to settle for seeing what policies the President supports to encourage a healthier, most sustainable food supply that doesn’t work against the small farmer.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Martha's Getting All The Good Chefs

I caught a repeat of Martha today. I never watch her, but she had a truly star studded line-up of Italian chefs.

Each chef was wonderful. All the recipes AND videos are on her website. Here are few notes from the show:

Mario made Spaghetti with Green Olive Sauce. He added pasta water at different stages, which he used to cool down the pan a bit and also to build up the sauce to coat the pasta. He tells us NOT to add cheese to this dish, because he wants us to experience the flavor and texture of the two wheat products (the spaghetti and the toasted bread crumbs).

Mario really is masterful. It's as if he was born with pots and pans instead of arms, he moves with such fluidity at the stove. You can get the video here.

Lidia Bastianich makes Sicilian Fettuccine with Fresh Swordfish. She adds a drop of the boiling pasta water to get the onions to "break down", after they've started to caramelize. She reminds us to use a wide pan to sauté the fish, so it doesn't steam. She adds a bit of fruity olive oil at the end, so it keeps more flavor.

Lidia also tells us why she doesn't add oil to the pasta water. (My reason is thaat it just gives you a greasy pot.) But listen to this! The oil inhibits the absorbency of the sauce onto the pasta. That really makes sense. The sauce would just slide off slippery pasta instead of absorbing it. INTERESTING.

Watching Lidia is just like having an Italian mama in the kitchen. Not all of us are lucky enough to have that, but some are.

Ron Suhanosky, from the New York restaurant Sfoglia, made a classic Spaghetti Carbonara. No cream - just pasta, egg yolks, an Italian bacon called guanciale and cheese. Ron made the same point as the other two did that the pasta water is important for marrying the sauce to the pasta.

His rule of thumb - use 1 egg yolk per person, and if the yolk is in danger of scrambling, add some more pasta water. I want that NOW.

Sal Scognamillo of Patsy's Italian Restaurant made Rigatoni Sorrentino. Very easy, basic dish. Cooked rigatoni gets added to ricotta and tomato sauce and baked with LOTS of cheese on top.

The best part was that the chefs didn't have any time-wasting interaction with Martha. She introduced them; they appeared on pretaped segments and they just got on with it and cooked one dish each. Very worthwhile viewing.

Thursday, October 4, 2007

Lidia On Today - 2 Great Recipes, A Really Scary Kid's Segment, And Tiki, Get Back To The Practice Field

I caught Lidia Bastianich on the Today Show this morning with Hoda Kotb. Apparently, "as we all know", they're hosting a wedding tomorrow. Well, actually, no, I didn't know, but Lidia was there to demonstrate an easy dish for a rehearsal dinner. Well...my first piece of advice would be...GO OUT TO DINNER! Who the heck needs to be cooking the night before a wedding? But this DID look like a lovely dish, for ANY time really.

First of all, just watching Lidia is the perfect antidote to so many of the now lousy Food Network shows. She's not flashy, she's just an accomplished chef, who has mastered the art of writing simple, yet appealing, and often very authentic, recipes. Add to that her down-to-earth motherly demeanor and what you have is a mix of perfect food AND personality.


For this occasion, Lidia knows the dish should be "uncomplicated, light, BUT flavorful. You NEVER compromise flavor." She decides on a different version of a pesto from Sicily, made with almonds and tomatoes. She says to serve it with a good Italian spaghetti, made from 100% semolina. (I didn't exactly expect her to recommend a pasta from Harrisburg.)

She and Hoda put the ingredients into the food processor, including tomatoes, basil, peperoncino, TOASTED almonds and then process. Then Hoda adds oil with the machine running. Very quick, very easy. Lidia drains the pasta. They’re running out of time, but Hoda handles it all very calmly. Of course, Lidia is the personification of calm. They mix the spaghetti with the pesto, put a bit of cheese on top, Hoda digs a fork in, twirls it and…and…commercial, we never see her taste it.

I wait for the commercial to be over to see if they mention it and I see something highly disturbing. It’s the next segment after Lidia.

It was these singing and dancing idiots called The Doodle-Wops or Woodle-Hops. I have no objection to children's acts. (I have certainly watched Mr. Rogers as an adult...when I was an adult, not just him.)

The thing that was noteworthy about this was that they kept showing the kids in the audience and, I‘M NOT KIDDING, they were completely UNMOVED. They sat there stone-faced in these ridiculous day-glo pink wigs that they had been given to wear. They looked almost upset at the idiocy around them.

The adults were enthusiastic, but the kids looked like they thinking, who are these imbeciles jumping around and why are we here, when we could be learning the alphabet in school from a normal teacher? The guys looked like eunuchs. The lead woman was an accomplished dancer, but her costume and required choreography made her look like a rag doll on speed. Uck! It’s going to take a while to get that out of my head…Think of the kids.

Lidia was coming back on the new 17th hour of Today, so I taped that. If her first appearance of the morning was somewhat incomplete, this one was nervewrackingly rushed by Tiki Barber, who admits that he never cooks. (Good choice for interviewer.)

He asks Lidia about being the Grand “Master” of the Columbus Day parade. She corrects him tactfully by saying, “Yes, I’m so excited about being the Grand MARSHALL.” Tiki, which organization did you think she was talking about?

He tells us that Lidia is going to complete the menu from earlier. To go with the pesto dish, she’s going to make Shrimp Alla Buzara. Oh, that’s AWESOME!!!! I JUST made that last week, from her book, Lidia's Italy and it is wonderful and simple.

Tiki is totally rushing her and there are only about 4 easy steps to this recipe, 2 of which she’s done in advance. Tiki, stand to the side and let Lidia do her thing!

She makes the base, adds the shrimp and says it’s important to leave the shells on. Tiki says, “Oh, when do you take them off?” WHEN YOU EAT THEM, GENIUS!” Lidia was a bit nicer...Where do we go now, he says. What do we do now? STOP asking that, Tiki. He tries to take a taste before she‘s ready. Lidia wants to make a perfect serving.

You couldn’t tell from this segment, but this recipe is definitely worth making. I don’t know enough about football (is that where he came from?) to make a sports analogy. But (that won’t stop me, however) it seemed to me that Tiki’s interview of Lidia was like a last minute pass to the end zone. The clock is about to run out and he fumbles or stumbles or whatever they do. He needs A LOT more practice.

Lidia, however, was flawless.

Saturday, April 21, 2007

Back To Basics, But Shouldn't They At Least Be Good, Giada?

Everyday Italian with Giada De Laurentiis

Giada's Kitchen Basics
Linguine with Shrimp and Lemon Oil
Quick and Spicy Tomato Soup
Arugula Endive Salad with White Wine Vinaigrette
Berry Strata


To get the recipes:
Click here

We see Giada shopping at Wild Oats. Too bad they've been bought out by Whole Foods and we'll have fewer choices of great places to shop. (Whole Foods is great, but Wild Oats has some great stuff too.)

Today, she's going to show us meals that can be cooked from our pantries. Now, just for a moment, let's analyse the difference between what her recipes will be like and what Sandra Lee's (who prides herself on her den of iniquity called a pantry) would be like. First of all, Giada's food won't have any unholy overly neon colors, and the only fizz will come from Prosecco, not a powdery substance. On second thought, let's NOT do that. We know what Giada produces will be worthy of being eaten, while with Sandy's, we have no such assurance.

Giada tell us to keep our pantry stocked with her basics and we'll be ready to cook anytime.

She's starting with a Berry Strata. Am I the only one that notices that she's JUST made a strata? In fact, I commented on how unusual it was to have a sweet strata - it was the first time I had ever seen one. And here we have another. Is that good programming? Even if the shows were made months apart, shouldn't the folks-in-charge have thought of that? I'm not holding that against Giada. I can't even say the number of times I've made Chicken Marbella and called it something else to get away with serving it 3 or 4 times a month, which wouldn't be such a problem...if it hadn't been for the last TWENTY YEARS!!!!

I digress...Giada tells us this is so versatile that it can be made for breakfast OR dessert. She starts by melting some butter with honey. The butter thins out the honey. That's an interesting way to look at it. Then eggs go in. Strata means layers in Italian, says Giada. A layer of custard, a layer of bread and so on, but here she's going to mix it all together. That's fine by me.

Giada always has ricotta in her fridge. It should be at room temperature for making the strata. That gets mixed with milk. "I always have milk in my fridge." Ok, ok, we get the idea that this show is about what food you have lying around the house...stop stating the obvious. I always have gummy bears and fig newtons. That doesn't mean they go into every dish I cook.

The Strata gets finished with orange juice, the butter and honey and frozen berries. (Guess who always has them lying-in-wait in the freezer?) Giada puts it in an oval gratin-type baking dish - exactly what I would use. The recipe says to put it in a 2 quart or 10 inch round baking dish. What would that be? A 2 quart round dish is a soufflé dish, which would be too deep. A 10 inch round dish would be a pie plate, which would be too shallow and the whole strata would be very dried out. Even though we haven't actually gone out and bought new food for this recipe, I'd be pissed if I cooked it in the wrong thing and it didn't turn out. Use the gratin dish.

The strata goes into the oven. I LOVE the oven shots. How DO they do that? She takes it out. Oooh, it smells like berries and cream. She takes a HUGE serving. There's is no way she's going to eat all of that. She takes a bite and SQUEALS with delight, I'm not kidding. Ok, whatever floats your boat...

Giada moves on to the linguine with shrimp and lemon oil. 1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil gets mixed with the zest of one lemon and set aside. The lemon was taken from a bowl of maybe THIRTY lemons, that Giada keeps around. How come the lemons that I keep around always look shrivelled and brown and these look beautiful? She seasons the pasta water really well, so she doesn't have to add too much salt later on. She cooks and drains the pasta. Keep back a cup of the pasta water. That's a good idea, no matter what pasta dish you're making. You may need to thin the sauce a bit or just bring everything together. Now, you have this nice already-seasoned water to do it with.

She sautés the shallots and garlic and adds frozen shrimp and more fresh lemon zest. Shrimp is a freezer staple for Giada, she tells us. But she never thaws them before cooking. "If you overcook them, they lose that sweetness and they get kind of rubbery." Add the linguine to the pan. And she likes to add something "clean and fresh", hence plenty of fresh arugula gets added with parsley. Strain the lemon zest out of the reserved oil and stir that in.

This dish looks tasty, but I must say we've seen something like this a million times from her AND Ina. Ina's recipe will always have more flavor, because when she calls something LEMON, it hits you over the head with its lemon-ness (in a good way). Michael Chiarello seems to have backed away from such an obvious rendition. His version would probably be packed with different kinds of shellfish and lots more herbs. But I guess she was cleaning out her pantry, so we'll have to give her a break.

Next is a "fantastic soup". I'm looking forward to it. Giada heats her oil, so that when the carrots, onions and garlic hit, they can begin cooking right away. Smart, but be careful not to let anything brown, because the garlic will become bitter. While that's cooking, get the beans ready(?) You mean open the can? Oh, you mean OPEN the can and then DRAIN and RINSE them. Oh, ok, that's different.

She's going to show us a little trick now. I wonder what it is...Store bought marinara sauce? What? That's not a trick, as in truc, like a GOOD shortcut. That's just nasty. Do you really want to dilute marinara sauce, add some beans and call it soup? NO! That reminds me of the stories you hear about people who dilute ketchup to make soup. But THAT'S a legitimate cost-cutting measure, when you're really counting every penny.

But to use a jar of tomato sauce, which I have no problem using in a baked pasta dish (which has a lot of other stuff in it) or as the sauce on a homemade pizza, as the base of a soup, is just plain unappetizing and frankly, rather surprising. I don't think Grandma would approve. She's adding low sodium chicken stock and red pepper flakes. Oh, I don't like this at all and if she adds frozen spinach (no doubt she always keeps it in her frickin' freezer), I'm going to punch somebody. Wait, it's worse, she's adding pastina. How many times do I have to say that you should NEVER add UNCOOKED pasta to a soup or stew? It drinks up the liquid faster than a pony at a rodeo. Of course, here that might be a good thing, but still don't do it. Cook the pasta (al dente)... separately...and then add it to the dish. I'm sorry, this is simply a rotten recipe.

I take a quick look at Lidia's Italy to see what she would do for a bean soup. She does use dried beans, which I would rarely do. But what she does do is to make a really flavorful base for the soup with vegetables and some kind of pork product, one recipe uses pork ribs, another sausage. You don't want pork? Get a thick piece of Turkey Ham, dice it and cook it with vegetables. You don't want any meat? Fine, triple the onions in Giada's recipe (and sweat the veggies a good 20 minutes or even longer), and add good canned plum tomatoes, not sauce. And serve it with pecorino. Here's another idea. A few shows back, Giada put a Parmesan cheese rind in the soup. This is the perfect place for that. Gosh, do I have to think of everything???

I'm almost scared to see what she does next. An arugula salad. How original! And how is that in keeping with the theme? I would have been more impressed if she had managed to make a salad using canned beets and frozen lima beans. Of course, I wouldn't have eaten it, but at least I wouldn't have had to go the store to get the arugula and endive.

She makes the vinaigrette in a blender. Finally something I'm down with. Good girl, Giada. White wine, lemon juice, honey and mustard go in. (Mustard is something I always try to have 2 or 3 jars of in my pantry.) Blend for a minute, then add the olive gradually with the motor running, so the ingredients incorporate really well. I'M SORRY, GIADA, THAT'S JUST NOT TRUE!!! You don't have to do that. I have been making salad dressing in a blender, since the 20th century and I'm here to tell you that you may bung in all of the ingredients together and then blend. That's it. End of story. No drizzling, dripping, dropping or dragging your heels. You just blend it A LOT and you will have a perfect emulsion. Even if you use equal parts of oil to acid, the blender will take care of it and mix it beautifully. Do we have that straight?

Giada, who surprisingly seems immune to my rantings, chops up Belgian endive. I hate endive. I know it adds a light light green whitish color that plays off darker green leaves beautifully, but it's too bitter for my, normally, very sweet personality. She combines the dressing with the arugula, endive and toasted walnuts. A not so sensational ending to a not so sensational show.

Friday, April 20, 2007

Lidia - The Italian Ina

The other day, I got an email from Borders as part of their "reward program"*. I usually delete them, unless I know I'm buying a book in the near future and I need a coupon. For some reason, I opened this one and I am glad I did.

In it was a brand new feature that they've launched called Borders Kitchen. The first one is a spectacularly wonderful series of videos with Lidia Bastianich, demonstrating recipes from her new book, Lidia's Kitchen. Click on videos to watch.



Whether you know her from her Public Television series or her books or her restaurants, you know what an excellent teacher she is. Now, why is this video so good? It's as if we're visiting with Lidia ourselves in her very own kitchen. She's tells us family stories and takes us for a tour of the market, as well as shows us several recipes from the book. Each video lesson lasts 10 minutes or longer.

There are 2 other folks in the kitchen with her - Mark Palmucci and Nicole Sims. I'm not entirely sure who they are (from Borders, I guess), but they're quite affable and ask her the right questions. Lidia is lovely and warm in an Ina sort of way. Her expertise is obvious, but she makes you feel that you can do it too. I really enjoyed this video and I urge you to take a look at it. The first chapter where she's just chatting is very entertaining. Turn it on when you're at your computer doing other things and just listen to her tell the story of her family through food.

Now the book itself is also very attractive and has highly usable recipes. I'm holding it in my hand right now. Interspersed with recipes from different regions of Italy are stories about different areas and also additional information about ingredients or specific places or dishes. For example, Lidia tells us how to trim and cut fennel, gives us the skinny (wrong choice of word) on the pizza of Napoli, or takes us to the markets of Rome.



I love how she ends this little series of videos. She says that her hope is that the flavors will transport the reader to Italy. That's what is so wonderful about Lidia's cooking, you don't have to go all the way to Italy to eat as if you were there, although I'm always ready.

*You can sign up for a Borders reward card - they're absolutely free (unlike some other book store's card) - at any Borders, Borders Express or Waldenbooks. This is the one time I gave someone my email address, because that's how they send the coupons. And purchases in their cafe count!!

I have no connection with Borders, other than being pleasantly surprised that they produced a cooking video of such high quality and I wanted to share it with you.

PS The web address isn't Borders.com, which takes you to Amazon. It's http://www.borderstores.com/ Click on Borders Rewards for more information.