Showing posts with label Marcus Samuelsson. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marcus Samuelsson. Show all posts

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Top Chef Masters Finale - Did One Chef Get Robbed?

I’m not saying I think that (exactly), but I am wondering what you thought.

This post has taken me a long time to write, because I didn’t want to stop thinking about it. I didn’t want to put any final pronouncements down on paper (online…whatever), until I’d run quite a few things through my brain.

Top Chef Masters - Season Two Finale

From the top…

When I see the final moments of last week’s episode, it brings back just how disappointed I am that it’s not Jonathan standing there. And it makes me LOVE Rick’s ambivalence at being in the final. He’s happy that he’s there, but unhappy that Jonathan is not. Rick is definitely my pick to win Top Chef Masters.

With no Jonathan, I was not at all psyched to watch this week’s episode. And I can’t help wondering how exactly did they do this again? How did they rope me into, not only WATCHING, but being very touched by what I saw on the finale?

The three finalists are taken to LA’s Union Station. Interesting choice. Were they looking for one of Los Angeles’ few examples of public transport? I would have thought LAX was much more recognizable. I guess, though, they wanted to convey a more common touch, so there are the three standing in the train station. The truth is that LAX would have been supremely appropriate, which we will learn later after we hear some of the markedly affecting personal stories of these chefs.

We see a little snippet on each chef’s journey to the final. Then they are told what the final challenge is. It’s a 3 course meal celebrating their personal journey as a chef. First course - their first food memory; Second course - what made them want to become a chef; Third course – the dish that describes them as a chef.

Susur says it’s very emotional to do that, because he’s never reflected on that before. They’re told last season’s 3 finalists – Hubert Kelly, Rick Bayless and MC(!!!) will be at the table along with Tom Colichio, Gail, Jay and James. No Gael? (Here’s why she wasn’t there and what SHE had to say about the final challenge. Don’t read it yet, if you don’t know who won.)

Then the three are invited to have a little breakfast together, which is set up at the train station. Frankly, it LOOKS like train station food - croissants, big chunks of fruit and Danish. There IS champagne, but we don’t see if it’s decent. Not impressive at all.

Marcus talks about his beginnings. There is no way not be moved by his personal story. His mother died of tuberculosis and he and his sister were adopted by a Swedish couple. He says, in the course of a 6 hour plane ride, he became Swedish and that’s where his food journey begins. (He found out his father was alive only about 10 years ago.)

Rick says when he was a kid he went clamming with his father on Long Island. He still remembers the smell of the seaweed and the breezes of the ocean. Who knew Rick was so poetic?

He says no one in his family was into cooking and he went off on his own into this field. He says his parents would be extremely proud if they were alive today. I’M proud of you Rick!!! I’d give you a pat on the back.

Susur tells us about having dim sum as a kid and remembering the black bean sauce. We have no hint at this moment of the drama to come in his life.

They go shopping. They have one hour and $1500. Susur says being a chef is like being a ninja. “Your mind has to be very strong.” I agree with that.

They have four hours to prep.

I love Marcus’s story about his second course, which will be duck. He and his grandmother always made Christmas Eve dinner together. One year, when he was still quite young, she was sick and he had to do the whole thing himself. He made a whole roasted duck and the feedback from his family was so positive that he decided to become a chef. He says his grandmother passed away 20 years ago, but she’s still with him when he cooks. I love that.

Susur tells us about his first (who knew?) wife, who was from Canada. He says he was a COOK at that point, not a chef. It was just a job. One day she says let’s go have Japanese food and it was the first time he had ever had it. He was so entranced that he wanted to learn how to do cook like that and so much more.

Rick had next door neighbors in Flushing, Queens that served him mushrooms for the first time. He thought they were so exotic that he got to thinking that he really wanted to be involved in a food career. He's going to make gnocchi for his second course.

I’m worried about the gnocchi. So much can go wrong with them. When they’re good, they’re GOOD; when they’re not, they can sink a meal like a rock.

Oh my, listen to this – Susur’s story. He “came from Asia to start a new life in Toronto with (his) first wife.” Then she got a job as a professor in Hong Kong. She suggested he stay in Toronto for a bit to make some more money and she would go on to Hong Kong and they’d meet up later.

“There was a lot of dreams of how we wanted to take on the future,” he says.

She was on the plane that was shot down in Russian air space. 269 people were killed.

Susur tells us, “Suddenly, the dream is gone.” OMG. I did NOT see THAT coming. He says he realized he had to focus on what he did very well – cooking. He says his first wife would be very proud of him. How can you not root for the guy now? I'm really in shock, actually. HOW do you survive that?

I don’t have long to think about it before Kelly comes into the kitchen with a surprise. The chefs don’t look happy. They shouldn’t have worried, the surprise is the sous chefs from their restaurants have arrived to help them. They’re thrilled. Too bad they didn’t know about it before.

Marcus says, “My largest goal is to bring Africa into the food dialogue.” He mentions the recognition that Latin American and, of course, Asian cuisines have, but it’s true there ARE just a smattering of African restaurants around. I hadn’t really thought about that before. Obviously, the entire continent of Africa has a lot more to worry about than fine dining (the World Cup for one thing), BUT cuisine is one way to bring about positive attention.

Susur tells us he met and married a Caucasian woman, after losing his first wife and that they have 3 “mixed” children. He always wanted to bring his kids back to Asia to learn about his heritage, so they travelled to Thailand and his final course reflects that trip.

Marcus mentions his sister Ashu from his Ethiopian village and how she has to wake up at 3 am to get clean water. That’s why the charity he’s competing for, the UNICEF Tap Project, is so important to him.

The judges - Jay, Gail and James join Kelly at the table with the other diners - Rick Bayless, Michael Chiarello (HI!) ;-) and Hubert Keller, last season's finalists. The current three finalists come out to explain their first courses.

Rick’s First Course

Hamachi & Live Sea Scallop Crudo; Glazed Kushi Oyster; American Sturgeon Caviar

James: “Stunning presentation. True artisty on the plate.” Rick Bayless: “The clarity is right there…perfectly cooked oyster.”

Susur’s First Course

Steamed Scallop With Cantonese Black Bean Sauce; Dim Sum Shrimp & Crab Croquette With Chili Sauce

Gail: “That black bean (sauce) is amazing.” Tom:”The combination…was just great.” Rick: “It really reminds you of being in a dim sum place…taken to the next level.”

Marcus - First Course

Smoked Char With Sweet Horseradish & Shellfish Broth; Mashed Root Vegetables

Tom: “The fish…it’s amazing.” James: “Spectacular tasting.” MC: “It’s like a glimpse into a friend’s childhood.” (I like that.)

Rick - Second Course

Bacon & Eggs With Gnocchi, Parmesan & White Truffles

Gail: “Is the gnocchi a little underdone?” OY, I was afraid of something going wrong with the gnocchi. Tom (or was it Rick?): “Chewy.” Jay: “I don’t think the execution is there. The pork belly hasn’t been braised for long enough.” Hubert: “When you keep it so simple, zee risk is much higher and I think he pulled it off pretty well.”

Marcus - Second Course

Salt Cured Duck With Foie Gras Ganache; Sour Tomato Jam & Aged Balsamic

Tom: “The liver, I think, is genius.” They all agree that it’s exceptional.

Susur - Second Course

Tuna With Wasabi Mousse; Charred Sea Bream; Artichoke, Asparagus & Daikon Salad With Ginger Flower

They do not like the large hunk of tuna that’s sitting on the corner of the plate. MC: “The broth was extraordinary, but I would go back for that bream…each and every time.” Tom says he’s not seeing Susur’s usually very precise work on this plate.

Marcus introduces his last dish by saying that he wants to try to bring Africa into the fine dining scene. It’s a “responsibility” that he believes he has.” HOW can anyone argue or vote against that? Saving an entire continent? THIS will be tough.

Susur - Third Course

Lamb Thaïlandaise With Chiang Mai Sausage; Green Curry; Polenta

Rick: “Oh wait till you taste that! It’s sooo good. I love the flavors. I’ve HAD the Chiang Mai sausage in Chiang Mai and he nailed it!” (How many people can say that?) Tom: “I think the sauces are well done and I also love the story he told.” (I don’t know if the diners know the entire story of his life. Tom may not have heard the half of it!) MC says he’s been impressed by every dish from Susur.

Marcus - Third Course

Berbere Flavored Hamachi Meat Balls; Porcini Couscous; Sea Urchin Froth

Rick: “It’s a bit odd in its texture.” I guess he can’t say he tasted this in Ethiopia, like he did with the sausage. James: “It sort of falls apart more than you want it to.” Gail: “The sauce is very briny. I think it’s beautiful, actually.” Rick Bayless says this wasn’t the strongest dish to him. He asks the others if it’s because he doesn’t understand the food. Hmm.

Rick

Third Course

Venison With Espresso Salt; Stuffed Cipollini Onions; Matsutake Mushrooms & Brussels Sprouts

Hubert: “It’s a perfect dish. I LOVE it.” Gail says his pear butter is insane.

I think Rick’s going to take the big prize. Please let him win.

Tom likes that the spices in the pear butter also echo the spice that you get naturally in the matsutake mushroom. Wow, this is high falutin stuff. He’s gotta take it. Rick: “Rick has really reached outside his box for this which I don’t expect in this part of the competition. But he’s really stretched.” I think that’s a good thing.

Rick should win, although I do love it when Susur says, “I told my story in three plates. I hope they got it. I hope they understand, because I felt I have delivered.” Honestly, I get choked up just thinking about Susur’s past. I think it’s remarkable that he went on to achieve what he’s achieved.

On to the Critics Table. They thank the chefs for their incredible meals. Rick gets A LOT of praise for his first course. They also say that Susur’s first course was beautiful and that Marcus’s was perfectly cooked.

James says Rick’s gnocchi wasn’t chewy, but perfect. Jay has a problem with the pork belly. Gail loves his egg yolk.

Susur tells of being opened up to Japanese food by his first wife. He agrees that the tuna could have been smaller.

They all rave over Marcus’s foie gras flan.

They were surprised and thrilled with Rick’s venison. James says it was minimalist. Jay says, being the sustainable guy, how did he feel about the venison arriving on a plane. Rick says he’s “not a tree-hugger”, he’s a chef.

Susur explains going to Thailand with his 2nd wife to see “that part of the world’s spices”. Gail loved that it showed where he was as a chef.

Marcus says it’s challenging in the West to present real African cuisine and that it can be very rich. Marcus says we’ve just hit the beginning of the journey, when James asks if the fish texture was how he wanted to be.

I’m thinking it’s Rick. It could be Susur, but I’m thinking it’s Rick.

They say such great things about all of them, but I still think it’s Rick. The envelope please.

Susur

Jay 4½

Gail 4

James 4.5

Diners 4

Total - 17 stars

Marcus

Gail 4.5

James 4

Jay 5

Diners 4

Total - 17½

Marcus beats Susur. Really? That’s kind of a surprise that Susur loses… Sad music plays. Okay, here it comes. What does Rick get?

Rick

James 5 YES!!!

Gail 4

Jay 4 Oy, he needs a FIVE from the diners to win. Can it happen?

Diners 4

Total - 17

Marcus WINS…what a surprise. What a shock. Half a point decided the winner! I’m not sure what to think. I’m happy for Marcus, but I feel bad for Rick. I really do.

The three chefs share a glass of champagne with the judges who screwed Rick. Interestingly, James, who I felt was so unfair to Jonathan (he actually addresses that here), gave Rick a five, so clearly he was rooting for Rick to win.

What happened here with the others? Does analyzing the scores by judge help?


Gail

James

Jay

Diners

Total

Rick

4

5

4

4

17 stars

Susur

4

4½

4½

4

17 stars

Marcus

4½

4

5

4

17½ stars


What do we learn from this table? Well, both Gail and Jay put Marcus at the top, while, as I said, James gave Rick the highest score possible. Jay did the same for Marcus.

The average of the DINERS’ scores (the diners being the chefs that really know stuff) rated each chef EQUALLY. Had they rated one chef a full point better than the others, THAT would have made the difference. At the end of the day, ONE HALF POINT chose the winner.

WHY didn’t Rick win? He seemed like a shoo-in.

Jay was one reason he didn’t win. Only read Jay’s blog post if you want to be incredibly confused. He makes so many outlandish statements that I’m willing to give James the crown as fairest judge of the group. AND, you know, I don’t really believe that.

If they were giving prizes for the loftiest goals, then, of course, Marcus would have taken it by a mile. He wanted to highlight an entire continent’s cuisine and, by bringing it into the light, bring the people right along with it. Plus who could vote against bringing clean water into poor villages?

If there were a prize for coming back from the worst tragedy you could ever imagine, then surely Susur would win first prize. I’m in awe of his strength and his ability to start a new life after his old one was shattered. I will always think of him in certain light now, as a survivor who doesn’t ask for sympathy, one who just gets on with it. Maybe that’s why we didn’t learn about all this until the finale.

BUT if they were handing out 100,000 dollars AND the title of Top Chef Masters for the chef who presented the best food on that given day, then someone PLEASE tell me WHY it wasn’t Rick. I don’t get it. I’m thrilled for Marcus, but sorely disappointed for Rick.

I loved the task they were given - to cook a meal to reflect who they were, how they got where they wanted to get and who they are now. This is so much of what cooking is about - the memories, the family connections and the big events that are held together by the glue that is great food.

Even if I’m unsure of how I feel about the outcome, all of these chefs deserved to be in the race for the big prize as they told their moving stories on the plate.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Top Chef Masters – And Then There Were Four; No, Three

Top Chef Masters - Improv

I admit that the only reason I watched Top Chef this week was to make sure that Jonathan didn’t go home. Well, maybe I should have watched my Tivo’ed version of the Housewives instead.

It wasn’t a bad episode and it had decent challenges, except Jonathan got royally screwed when the theme of his Elimination Challenge dish was Depression, Burnt Sienna and Avocado. He acquitted himself admirably, I thought, with Mesquite Grilled Chicken Breast, French Fries, Yams & Avocado with Grapefruit - a meal Jonathan thought would get anyone out of a depressed mood.

On to the judging. Susur is told first that he’s through to the finale. His final score is 17. Marcus is next. His scores? 4½, 4½ 4½, plus 4 stars for a total of 17½. Marcus wins. They’re all happy for him. He and Susur are excused to the kitchen.

Oy, this is not good. Jonathan is going home, I feel it.

Commercial. Of course, there is.

I’m not feeling good for Jonathan. Scores? Jonathan gets 3, 3 and 2½ stars from James. That’s it. James screwed him. I really think that, for whatever reason, James never got Jonathan. Maybe Jonathan is too comfortable in his own skin and that threatens James…(just saying).

Wait, luckily the diners give him 3 stars for a total of 11½. Oh, but there is NO way he can beat Rick and make it to the final. I’m so mad. He got such a yucky bunch of words to cook from.

Alright, let’s hear Rick’s scores. 3, 3½ (OY!!!), then 3½ stars. He needs 2 more stars to beat Jonathan. Of course, he’ll get that. The diners give him 3½ stars. Woe is Jonathan. Woe is me.

Rick is lovely as he says he has such mixed emotions about making it to the final without Jonathan, whom he loves. Oh gosh, where’s the Kleenex?

Jonathan says the saddest part is leaving his fellow chefs. He says he adores Rick. I guess I’m not surprised that he got eliminated, but I am sad.

Now I don’t feel at all invested in the finale. Oh, wait a sec, I may have spoken too soon…Is that MC in the preview of the finale, during the final judging? Gosh, he looks handsome.

Well, alright, I may watch because of that, but I really want to lodge a protest about Jonathan not being judged fairly. James always seemed to rate him harshly and particularly low. I’m so deeply disappointed that my guy got sent home. But I guess you pays your money and you takes your chances.

Jonathan was a lot of fun to watch all these weeks, even though I would have liked to have seen him slay the final dragon. Would that have been his competitors or a certain judge? I’m not sure.

Friday, May 28, 2010

Top Chef Masters–Feeding The Gods And I’m Not Talking About Jay or James; Susan Is Delightful; Marcus Is Remarkable And Jonathan Is Another Year Older

Top Chef Masters – Food of the Gods

I’m concerned because we’re hearing a lot from Jonathan at the beginning. Does that mean he’ll be gone at the end of the episode?

At least he gets a free pass in the Quickfire Challenge. It’s an identify-the-ingredients challenge and the rules are a little opaque. They divide up in pairs to compete.

Marcus lets Susur go first and Susur says he can name 6 ingredients. He DOES, including identifying the oil as vegetable oil. Amazing. He brags, “Luckily, I am the sauce-tasting master.”

But does this mean that Marcus doesn’t even get a chance to go? Why can’t they all just do it individually?

Susan is up against Rick. Rick is baffled. Susan tries to name 6 ingredients. Oy, she gets one ingredient wrong! Rick moves to the next round without doing anything.

Like a spelling bee, Rick, Susur and Jonathan taste the next sauce. Jonathan says he has a great wine palate, so this should be easy. Jonathan is wrong when he says there’s butter in the Thai Green Curry Sauce. That WAS an odd guess.

Susur and Rick move on and Rick has barely had one turn. The last sauce is a Lobster Sauce.

Rick: Tomato. (He sounds scared).

Susur: Lobster. (He sounds cocky.)

Rick: White wine. (He says it almost as a question.)

Susur: Garlic. (No hesitation, except HE’S WRONG.) I did NOT see that coming. I was about to proclaim Susur as the winner of the whole thing.

Rick wins and, gosh, was he lucky. He barely had to guess anything in any of the rounds to get the win. Susur was mad. “How the hell you make Lobster Sauce without garlic?” he says.

For the Elimination Challenge, they draw knives with the names of Greek gods on them. They have to create a dish inspired by their god. That should be good. Jonathan gets Poseidon, the god of the sea. Rick gets Hades, the god of the underworld and Susan has Aphrodite. Funny. Susur can’t pronounce his god of wine, Dionysus, but he should be happy because how easy is that?

Jonathan tries to dissuade Rick from using seafood. It doesn’t work.

Marcus has a highly intellectual approach to his dish for Aries, the god of war. He says lots of dishes in Ethiopia were created in time of war and they were all tartare based, because smoke and fire would alert you to the enemy. So he’ll be curing beef, salmon and scallops and not “cooking” them. HOW DID HE KNOW ALL OF THAT? About the enemy seeing smoke? He’s actually kind of awesome.

All the chefs are totally into the challenge, except Susur, who is totally confused by cooking a dish inspired by the god of wine. Just use a lot of wine, for goodness sake!!!

Next Marcus says war is raw backwards, so he’s concentrating on that. He’s really got all his bases covered.

Awww, Jonathan says he’s turning 59 tomorrow, the day of the challenge and that he really misses his family. I hope that doesn’t make him give up so he can go home.

With 2 hours left to cook, Kelly says they have a little business to attend to. All the chefs are nervous and not interested in adding to the challenge of what they have to do.

The doors open and a birthday cake in the shape of the French Alps comes rolling in on a cart for Jonathan. He says he usually spends his birthday in the French Alps and he’s very touched. The chefs eat cake and drink champagne. (Well, we only see the champagne part.)

Marcus hurts his back and Rick notices. His response? “Very interesting,” he says with a glint in his eye.

Susan loves her goddess, because she says she’s a hippie at heart and all about love, not war or anger. She is completely delightful. I adore her and want her and Jonathan and Rick in the finals.

Marcus really does have an impressive personal story. He says when he thinks about war, he thinks about how he thought his father died in one. That’s how he and his sister came to be adopted when he was three years old by a Swedish couple. He was thrilled when he found out his father was alive ten years ago.

Wow, he has led a remarkable life and achieved so much. But he can come back and win Top Chef Masters another time. I want Jonathan to win this one. (Not that HE couldn’t come back, but I imagine he wouldn’t.)

They arrive at the venue. Susan puts twigs and a flower in her headband to get in an Aphrodite mood. Too cute.

Jonathan is cooking his dish to order. Is that Kate Gosselin walking in??? No, but they keep focusing on her lookalike. Susan tells the folks to drink their cocktails and “get aroused” as she rushes to plate the food. The chefs' dishes are here.

The critics all like Susur’s dish, except for the warm olives.

Marcus tells the critics about his dish being made with very little smoke, so they can hide away from enemy. He should cook for the armed services. The diners love Marcus’s salmon. The critics do too, except Gail says the flavors are a little muddy.

Susan’s coconut toast and coconut jam with a fried egg seem to go over well.

Rick tells Jay if he doesn’t like his dish he can go to hell. Funny. Rick’s “hellacious dish” of crusted swordfish is a complete success, EXCEPT that Gael says the swordfish, while flavorful, is overcooked.

Please let Jonathan do well. I’m praying to Poseidon that his dish is great. The critics like his dish overall, but think his scallops are over-seasoned. Could that possibly be enough to send him home?

It seemed that everyone did well.

The chefs all get called back in. About Susur, Gail says: “Every ingredient was focused and was prepared beautifully.”

About Jonathan: Gail agrees with Jonathan’s own description of his dish and says, “There was a bit of messiness there.” Jonathan points to himself and raises his eyebrows as in “Well, YEAH!” They all laugh. (Good, keep them laughing.)

The critics look skeptically at Marcus as he explains the scope of his dish.

Rick gives the critics his hellish laugh, which was freaking out his competitors all day. They are amused. Gail says his beetroot/potato combination is “so simple, so beautiful”. Jay mentions his fish was slightly overcooked.

Susan says she was thrilled to be Aphrodite. I love her. When Jay says “it’s the kind of food (you’d) eat after…, rather than before.” She pauses and completely agrees. More laughter.

What will happen? I kinda think at this point that it might be Marcus. But after the critics’ discussion, it seems like it might be sweet Susan, because they didn’t think her dish was complex enough.

Alright, let’s see what happens:

I really and truly stink at this! Marcus and Rick have the highest scores. 15½ stars for Marcus and 18 stars for Rick. He’s the winner. They are sent back to the kitchen.

Isn’t it still Jonathan’s birthday? They just can’t send him home. Susur gets 15 stars. Susan gets 10½. It’s down to Susan and Jonathan. WHAT do they know? Jonathan gets 3, 2½, 3 and FOUR stars. WHAT does that add up to?!! Oh, 12½ stars. He stays. Susan goes.

Waaahhh!!!! She still has a big smile on her face. I’m sooo sorry. She was great. I loved her cooking, her personality, her joie de vivre. She really is a fantastic character, as well as a great chef. Darn! And I would absolutely order her Coconut Jam Toast with Butter, Soy AND a Fried Egg at Street. So THERE, critics!!!